15 10 / 2012

As pessoas sentam-se no gabinete de espera. Apresentam diferentes estádios de degradação humana. Gordura a explodir, peles constrangidas por líquidos tóxicos acumulados. Os olhares são tristes e pobres. As costas descaídas, corpos mal-ajeitados nas cadeiras.

Só alguns elementos fogem do esquema. Algum puto mais novo. Um senhor elegante de pele preta, rugas à volta dos olhos, mas firme e composto.

Mesmo assim todos temos uma camada amarelada de desconforto neste lugar.

O oposto também acontece. Estou com a certeza de que qualquer um dos que cá está, se estivesse no lugar que mais gosta, um lustre de franca beleza ia fazer brilhar até as caras mais cinzentas.

Entretanto, uma sucessão de imagens loucas e pouco apropriadas correm umas atrás das outras nos écrans do gabinete. Mostram, sem compaixão, as doenças que se tratam no departamento. O corpo humano é capaz de ser muito desagradável. E não acho que seja uma bela ideia esmagar visualmente os doentes com essas amostras mucosas e gelatinosas, rosadas e estranhas ao nosso mirar habitual.

Silencio na consulta.

Espero bem que os meus ouvidos estejam bons

E não tenha de voltar cá.

Hospital de Santa Maria, Lisboa.

Consulta de Otorrinolaringologia.

10 6 / 2012

It is very easy to surf nowadays. We do have internet, car, wetsuits, leashes… But we have lost kind of a beauty that lies on the small things. Like going walking to the beach without knowing really if the waves will be as we want. Waking up early in the morning and finding two friends, because there are no cell phones, of course!

Nothing of this is usual today. We do have 7 days forecasts, cell phones to see those forecasts everywhere we are… and everything without having any cold.

I don’t mean that the old times were better. No! I’m happy that I have a good wetsuit, to have the google earth app, windguru and my car. But I don’t want to forget what is surfing really. And for me it’s about the beauty of everything. From the small insect with transparent wings that lyes on my finger while I write, the explosion of flowers I could see coming walking tyo my spot. And the surprise to arrive there and see the waves breaking alone because windguru said it would be too windy but this pointbreak doesn’t gives a shit and keeps on sending beautiful lines across the bay.

It’s for those small details that I surf. And is because of that why I start this blog talking about Jesper, aka, Dinamarques. He was one of the first surfers of Ericeira, mainly at Coxos. And it was him who recomended me to go walking to coxos if I really wanted this wave, and in general this lovely piece of world where we live.

And yes, I started to do it. I discovered that it only takes me 10 minutes from home and that the walk is amazingly pretty and is half of the surf session. The ocean opens its arms slowly as the small slopes of the hills lead to the sea. glory rivers of flowers and grass soften the agressive sound of the roaring sea.

The smell and the views make the car completely useless and even worthless. It can rain or it can be windy, but it’s just ten minutes of welcome to something that I consider the real world.